The Little Chaps have been on a Grand Tour, earning their yellow jersey's and, surprisingly when considering Holland, their polka-dot climber's jersey too!
When you think of easy places to go cycling with children, the Netherlands will be one of the first places that comes to mind. Easy to access from the UK, flat terrain, great infrastructure and all the benefits of the continent's summer sunshine. Less obviously, parts of Germany and Belgium should be right up there as well - they just aren't quite so flat!
We've visited the wider region a few times with the Little Chaps, tailoring the area to their growing strength and cycling ability - here's what we have learned....
Getting there:
We live in the North of England so getting over to Holland is really simple. Drive along the M62 to Hull, getting there at about tea-time. Drive pretty much straight onto the P&O ferry, have our dinner (usually we take it rather than go to the restaurant), the Little Chaps stay up a bit late until the ferry is out of the Humber Estuary (and there is nothing to see anymore) and then they go to bed whilst Mummy and Daddy pop upstairs for a start-of-holiday drink. Wake up in Rotterdam and make it to a campsite for about lunchtime.
It isn't the cheapest ferry service but when you do all the travelling overnight, you gain a day of holiday and we have even managed to return home overnight on Sunday and commuting back to our desks in time for the start of work (working from home is great!)
Of course, you may have your principles tested by the recent antics of P&O but, for us, the drive to Harwich which is the other overnight option is just so much further and more tiring, especially on the return. Having hesitated to book P&O this year, we had to go to Harwich for our preferred dates as the P&O ferry was already fully booked, so I guess most people have moved on from that one!
Pics L-R: sunset in Harwich, "Land Ahoy!" (EuroPort, Rotterdam), Cycling by the Maas, Windmill, Cauberg climb
Cycling areas:
Based on our experiences with the Little Chaps, we can loosely divide North West Europe into 3 main areas with their own distinct styles. Obviously, you can go pretty much anywhere but we tend to avoid the major population centres, looking for WildWayWildDays terrain - the countryside:
- North Netherlands
- North West Germany (Emsland)
- Three Countries area - South-East Holland where the Belgium, Netherlands and Germany all come together
The North Netherlands is flat, but by no means boring. The Little Chaps were still in a double trailer when we visited this area as we actively sought out the lack of uphills (note- there are still many small uphills onto the various dykes!). It's main disadvantage as an area is that it can be windy and there is nothing to stop the wind so the cycling can be tough at times. We stayed in the area around Ommen which is quite close to the German border.
Emsland is the North Western province in Germany, bordering the Netherlands. We ended up here somewhat by chance and had a very different experience to what we had expected - in a good way! In 2020 we were sitting on a ferry ticket bought in the January (when Covid was a thing happening to other countries) and were lucky to be able to travel abroad in the summer period of "freedom" from Covid restrictions. However, the Netherlands were more restrictive with regards Quarantines etc so we thought, let's camp in Germany (who were less restrictive) and then cycle over the border. The network of routes in this area of Germany is fantastic. A quick trip to Tourist Info and we had a free map of signed routes across the area. The area is more hilly the the Netherlands but with both the Little Chaps on their FollowMe tandems, we had a blast. Note, these routes are signposted slightly differently to the system described below and don't use the numbered junction system which makes them a little more prescribed - however, they take you along the best/nicest/most scenic routes in the area so you go to the best bits!
The Three Countries area is not flat! But it does have cycling heritage with the Ardennes Classics coming through the area and that gives it some famous climbs that are worth seeking out. We rode around 50-60km each day and rarely climbed over 250m over the course of the day. Only our days to the Cauberg (Amstel Gold race), Mur de Huy (La Fleche Wallonne race) and the highest point in the Netherlands (322.5m) had what you might call serious ascent during the day - and, of course, you can just avoid these hills! We had Little Chap #1 on the back of our tandem and Little Chap #2 on a FollowMe tandem and the hills (even the steep, race ones) were manageable but I don't think I would have fancied taking the trailer up!
Pics L-R: Car Ferry crossing, Lifting Bridge, Passenger Ferry crossing, Hills!
Bike Setups:
We have utilised three setups to cycle with the Little Chaps on these trips:
1) Mountain bike (urban tyres) with Double Trailer
2) Two adult bikes with FollowMe Tandems for Little Chaps - both on Isla Bikes
3) Daddy & Little Chap #1 on Full-size adult tandem with crank shorteners, Little Chap #2 on Mummy's bike with FollowMe tandem
Of course, pretty much any combination of bikes, trailers (single or double) or FollowMe tandems is possible to get your Little Ones out and about.
Cycling Infrastructure:
These three areas are quite different in their character but all benefit from the same great infrastructure. This means that route planning is really straightforward, there are loads of places to stop for lunch etc and things to see en-route. The cycle path network means that the Little Chaps can easily and safely ride solo (although they mostly just rode solo on the campsites, preferring Mummy and Daddy power during our days out!).
There is just so much traffic free bike space, that it really has to be seen to be believed. Having priority at roundabouts takes some getting used to but it is so nice when cars just stop and wait for you. In fact, despite our wild spaces instincts, we often actively choose to ride through larger towns just to experience the cycle friendly infrastructure.
All of the cycle paths are linked by a simple number system so route planning is really easy. Buy the maps before you travel (the MapShop are really helpful for this) and trace out a ride, noting the numbered junctions. Then head out and just follow the arrows between each junction. Local riders have a clipboard attachment on their handlebars to note and read the numbers from - we just used a piece of card that Little Chap #1 was in charge of and he barked out orders from the back of the tandem. He was able to design his own route and took us out for the day towards Maastricht. The system works throughout Holland, into Western Germany and down into Belgium as well - it just isn't quite as extensive beyond the Dutch border.
The routes have loads of variety, they are not all alongside a road. Some of the paths go through woodland, some are on quiet roads, there are ferries to cross rivers and, in places, cobblestones which are an "experience"!
Pics: Traffic free routes & route signposts
Accommodation:
We have stayed in campsites, all of which we found on the internet by looking in the areas we wished to visit. We have never had any problems booking, or, importantly, communicating (Dutch is German-like so my schoolboy German helped to a point). We have stayed on the large euro-camp style sites, edge of town sites and the relatively rural sites. They all had all the facilities that you would expect and you soon become known as the "English Family" and on the smaller sites, everyone talks to you. The Little Chaps have never been short of space to play - our last site had table-football and a sandpit, what else could a Little Chap want?!
One interesting point to note, Dutch campsites and shops have become less accepting of Visa and Mastercard as a means of payment. We ended up relying on cash this summer (which meant the fun and expense of finding a cash machine) and need to explore getting a Maestro card for travelling in the future.
Pics L-R: Observation Tower at the 3 Countries Point, Windfarms, Barges, Heritage railways, Pump Track
Things to see:
The Little Chaps were never short of a conversation starter because there is loads to see and do along your ride. Canals and rivers with the massive barges, and sometimes locks, provide constant interest. Windmills (of course) are everywhere, and loads of watermills in the hillier areas. Farm machinery is everywhere and crop-sprayers occasionally get positioned where they spray the roads which is great for cooling off! Castles/Chateaus and vineyards and plenty of places to stop for chips and/or applecake (when in Rome and all that...).
Other things to do (rest day activities):
The WildWaysWildDays crew don't do "rest days"! There's always something to go and see!
Our favourite "alternative activity" is definitely canoeing and kayaking. Even in the flatlands around Ommen, we found a canoe trip that came down a side river and then ended with a tricky (because of the headwind) paddle up a large canal. Little Chap #2 was only about 20 months old at the time and there was still a lifejacket to fit. This summer, we enjoyed a more technical sit-on-top kayak paddle down the Maas with some more interesting "rapids" (just faster moving water!) to negotiate.
Actually, this was probably incorrect. The Little Chap's favourite alternative activity is riding on a double-decker train! A simple train ride to the nearest large town, a walk around, lunch and then a second double-decker train ride back is the easiest entertainment and a definite highlight.
There is not a shortage of things to do when your legs need a rest from cycling!
Rest day activities - trains and boats and....more trains and boats!
More adventures to come?
The Little Chaps have, obviously, grown considerably over the years we have been exploring Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands. They great thing is that the areas we have visited have grown with us as the Little Chaps have increased in strength. From the flatter north of Holland, through the slightly hillier Emsland and onto the more challenging Three Countries area, we have adapted the cycling equipment to suit the Little Chaps and to suit the terrain.
Going forwards, we all definitely want to go on a proper cycle-tour, carrying all our camping stuff and moving campsites. The plan is to ride onto the ferry in Hull, ride around the route network and then return to Rotterdam to come home. Watch this space.
In the meantime, get your crew over the North Sea and enjoy the amazing cycling...
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